Well this was great too with Doobie Brothers ‘o’ Black Water music – but they took that soundtrack away…. doesen’t change a thing about how great it all was….. we just played what we were dealt…. like now.
‘doggone people !
Tom Haynie
August 19, 2009
June 30, 2009
After several months of planning and improvising a raft, riding the current of the mighty Mississippi River became a reality. For a week in May and the full month of June 2009 we lived aboard our boat’ the ‘Freebird’ as we covered 1700 + miles of The Mississippi River from Minnesota to New Orleans.
The scenery and activity that surrounds the Mississippi River was an incredibly interesting change to our ‘normal’ setting in the Carolina’s – the 32 days onboard were spent standing rather than sitting – walking the deck, watching, and just ‘taking all the different features in’ as we drifted at idle-speed – truly a simple adventure.
We took alot of pictures and talk often about the towboats (‘tows’) along the way, I suppose that was because tows are the predominant feature, activity, and ‘chat’ on the river (next to #2 ‘Catfishing,’ and #3 talking about “going down the river”). Along the way we also learned firsthand the remarkable nature of the folks along her and that the Mississippi is indeed our nations “interstate of waterways” - truly the ‘backbone’ of our country in moving commerce on a large scale and in a safe manner.
For me the unexpected bonus was in surpassing New Orleans and spending a couple of days along the Gulf’s Intercoastal Waterway as I ‘putted’ from New Orleans to Biloxi, Ms., where the trailer was waiting. I did not want to get off of the water, but the little pontoon (Freebird) was no match for the “Anti-Gulf.”
Of course with any adventure such as this it took the support/words and effort of friends, family, and folks along the way to make it ‘full-circle,’ thank you – you folks know who you are.
As I work back through the notes I will try to elaborate a little more where I couldn’t while on the river. On the lower Mississippi cell towers were few, plus there was just too much for me to take-in, I wanted to look around and I really didn’t want to sit here… it all worked out.
We did pull our camera’s out and note as much as we could, for the video’s – I am certainly not a professional and with some of those drink concoctions it really didn’t matter – but I did push the button, it was fun. We were on the river ‘doin-it’ – and that is what was important…
It was an outstanding ride on one of Mother Nature’s continental tear ducts; hopefully these notes will provide some perspective to any that may plan a trip of their own one day.
Why not ?…..
Mom (Marie) riding before decommissioning the 'Freebird'
lifes2short
blogsurfer.us
June 30, 2009
We began this trek in Asheville, NC – and soon found that all this modern technology is not a bit of good without power…….. before traveling I had prepared everything on the truck except the lighter socket (for power), so while traveling our computer, telephones, and someone’s “Tom-Tom” died - but not a big deal, we just couldn’t communicate while traveling (and even though it was pretty neat gadget – I’d never used a “tom-tom’ before).
So we had to make conversation and they had to trust I knew where we were going – and without the technology we still made it riverside – La Crosse, Wi (La Cresent, Minn). This was originally a hasty post as we found a electrical receptical, waited for our rooms to get into after 16+ hours driving, and began preparing the ‘bird.
It was a busy day after traveling so many hours, but we remained pretty much non stop until 6pm - ‘Freebird’ slowly came together. Jason Worley and Brian Lawrence (fellow firefighter’s) were invaluable with their assistance – their quality work would prove solid against the elements over time and the next 1700 miles of the river.
When I did put it in the water my excitement was tempered with possible motor trouble (unknown at the time it was a developing self-oiler issue), as things seemed to straighten out (the buzzer went off) all seemed fine, weight then became our concerning factor. I made a final ‘culling’ of items that I wanted and needed to take.
It was a really long day and we were tired, so we put the computer down and got ready to check out the town – at the same time we had tractor’s surrounding us at the hotel, neat.
even one old ford 8N with a flat-head ford V8 in it……..
The folks in Wisconsin were as nice and friendly as they were serious about their tractors - as strangers it was all a refreshing sense of kindness, and on the weather side of it all the nights were cool – a sign of good things to come…
It was a long but very important day where to the largest degree planning and preparation paid-off, and left a little time for fun……..
What are you going to do with that chicken Jason?
June 30, 2009
Miles Covered: um 700 to um 647 (53 miles)
Closest towns or landmark (chart): La Crosse, Wi to island across from Gordon’s Bay landing
Original Post date: May 28
First day on the water, start of the river trek – our first thoughts and hopes were for a ‘ clean’ river run with no major weather issues or delays (which we received) – primary objectives for the first day were to just get a feel of the river, find out about current, fuel mileage (3 to 5 miles per gal), and “earn” some river miles while acclimating to the boat and scenery.
It turned out to be an awesome day (this became the ‘norm’), there was a gentle breeze at our back, the air was clear, ‘bluffs’ on each side of the river, and we had sightings of about nine eagles during the day – several in the act of catching fish near the boat.
We soon found our pace – pretty much a little more than idle-speed yet with the current and a breeze at our back – there was still wind in our hair.
The first tows that we passed were impressive, the barges they pushed were huge and to add to that they were usually pushing 15 of them (42 on the lower Mississippi) – but to this point no major wakes to deal with as we were expecting (we were later to learn that the waves after the tows (radiating from the shores) created the most havoc). The Pilots in the tows were very professional, time after time they proved their skill while showing a high degree of consideration as we shared the river, they were great to us.
We passed through locks 8 and 9 on this date, with no delay at 8 and then had an hour and a half wait at 9 – the communication requesting ‘lock-through’ was friendly (channel 14) – seems most everyone we met had a desire to chat and did so with a smile (even if a train was right behind them!). The lock attendants would drop us a couple of ropes and we would chat some more as the river dropped below us – an average of seven feet in just a few short minutes (the time was spent getting IN the locks), neat experience.
Railroads run along the eastern shore, the trains were long and many – seemed they coincided their runs so that the one in the opposing direction would come through 15-20 minutes after the Southbound (I’m sure thats a good thing). We never really tired of them, they were/are part of the character of the river – what we did learn though was NOT to tie-up for the night near a city (as they blow their horns at all the crossings!), “doggone trains!”
There are also small communities that pop up around the bends, also with that are fishermen – and their families with their poles in the water and a friendly wave – they fish for more than catfish on the Upper Mississippi.
Today has been a play-it by ear day, plans were to cruise until about four and then find a place to ‘lite’ for the evening, but after a 1.5 hour wait at lock nine – it ended up being an 8pm ‘tie-off’ a mile or so after the lock and figure out our ‘camping’ routine (ez).
On a ’side-bar;’ our passenger Patrick (see Crew) arrived in LaCrosse is now accompanying us, we even gave him the Captains chair for a while this morning.
So our first day on the river began an ongoing trend, no major hurtles – we settled down for the evening just out of Lock 9 and spent the first night listening to the trains pass on the far shore – plus all through the night hearing what sounded like ‘coconuts falling into the water (ker-plunk (maybe beavers)) – these things never ceased to entertain us.
Next day, Day 2 – To Dubuque..
June 30, 2009
Miles Covered: 67 miles, um 647- to um 580
Closest towns or landmark (chart): Outside of Lock 9 to Dubuque, Ia Yacht Club
Original Post date: May 29
It was just an OK nights sleep after a long wait to pass through Lock 9. A tow had priority and the process for a large tow to pass through takes a while – pushing 12 barges they move into the lock (which will only hold nine barges and the tow), so they have to leave the front three (or six) in the lock and back out. The first containers are lowered (or raised) first and then the tow and remaining barges “lock-through” and reattach on the other side – it takes at least an hour….
So we tied up to a buoy in ‘pool 9′ for the wait and watched the eagles soar and do their natural thing, to this date we have noticed 23 treating us as if we were not around. There are also many white pelicans and blue heron present – the river’s natural and unnatural entertainment mixed together, all a part of the adventure.
Besides the trains last night we had the beaver slapping their tails when things became too quiet – sounded like coconuts falling into the water, plunk!
Then today began with sprinkles and figuring out the coffee pot – looks like a Mr. Coffee,’ but you set it on a Coleman grill, fix the ‘trigger,’ and turn the heat way up – fixing the ‘trigger’ was important, it finally worked out after wasting a pot of coffee and eating a few grinds.
Again, the day started overcast with light rain and the wind in our face, neat weather.
We ‘idled’ along in the current to McGregor, Ia. and took a walk through the town. Then we located a restaraunt near the river and had breakfast, nice simple place – and more great folks at a their nice simple pace. Biscuits and gravy here, Carl was real happy with his eggs/bacon/hashbrowns too. For some reason his coffee wasn’t as well appreciated, but all the while the locals enjoyed their normal morning conversation - nice to just ‘fit-in’ and eat – and thats what we did.
Early Fire Triangle (alarm)
The motor has been doing fine after a couple early concerns – our fuel tank needed venting, of course we found this when on docking I checked the rear of the boat – our 12 gallon tank looked like a two gallon red raisin (I think it was pulling fuel FROM the motor) simple fix – open the vent!
So we ease along in no hurry and so far surprised at the daily mileage while just getting a ‘feel’ of the river, initially I don’t think it will last.
I had allotted 57 days and nights for the river at 30 miles per day thinking weather would hold us up a number of times (which would leave us time in various cities) – but we hit the ‘mother-glitch’ of good weather for going south and we are riding it casually southward…..
Lock 10 came with sunshine, but again an hour waiting for a tow. Waiting is really alright, just a bit tougher in the south wind and whitecaps of the ‘pool’ immediately before the lock while trying to stay off (or out of) the dam. You can call early and ‘pace-yourself’ toward it (depending on their time-table for you), or head on in and tie-off outside (leaving room for the tows) along the lock wall – for us, it just took some boat tricks (large, slow circles) and patience…. .
Just after lock 10 we decided to stop and ‘top-off’ our fuel, again – if for nothing else to enjoy some wonderful conversation with the locals..
Really, the fuel attendants
OK, so we really needed the three gallons of fuel,….. the conversation was great and the scenery – well, you decide. We slowly climbed back into the ‘bird’ and reluctantly proceeded southward through the sunshine with a little more ‘flavoring’ to our conversation – it took a short while before the beauty of the bluffs, long trains, and tows returned to the top of our thoughts – well, maybe a little longer……
The view from the Freebird Pilot-house……
There seems to be plenty of camping and recreational boats along the sandy shores here, picturesque – all of it.
The wait at lock 11 took the longest so far (2.5 hours) so we tied up to a maintenance skiff between the lock and shore, then walked up and watched the process from the handrail – this lock was not opened to the public, but after advising us of that point the attendants still allowed us to ‘hang out’ anyway.
Arrived in Dubuque, Iowa as it was getting dark, it was after nine o’clock – another late ‘tie-down. So we followed the right shoreline around and through small channel to the Dubuque Yacht Club where we tied-off to their transient dock…..The National Mississippi River Museum and Aquarium is nearby, we will visit it before leaving town.
It seemed a long day, I was pooped and still adjusting to sleeping on the boat, which finally came (Sunday morning).
Instead of some island I find ourselves tied-off between all these large nice vessels and bathing under a garden hose soaping down – new kid on the block…..
The next morning we found a wonderful Yacht Club, with plenty of amenities (and good food)……
Dubuque Yacht Club
June 30, 2009
Miles Covered: um 580- to um 546 (74 miles)
Closest towns or landmark (chart): Dubuque, Ia Yacht Club to Savanna, Il riverside (Storm World 1)
Original Post date: June 1
Woke up at the Dubuque Yacht Club where we met ‘Duck’ (short for Duckett) whom has a house boat and a new set of ‘twins’ (new motors in his boat), it’s a nicer older steel hull houseboat – I think he has it as a great excuse to have something to work on and place to go to – nice boat.
‘Duck’ had met Bill and Max the year before and asked of their adventure, how it went and weather they had made it – we gave him the site and filled him in on all that we could.
After a high-class ‘bird bath,’
We had breakfast buffet at the Yacht Club, two meals a day seems to the rule so far… beautiful place, nice atmosphere and food – then we find out that they have a new shower facility out back…., so I took another one. From there we motored over to the River Museum, lots of neat wildlife exhibits for the kids and big stuff (old river boats that you can walk through) for the adults – so we spent a couple of hours there.
When we returned to the water we encountered the Sunday crowd and a multitude of recreational boaters, lots of wakes – the water was rough. We noticed some tows were ‘beached’ (idling with their front barge to the shore) and remaining stationary, we thought maybe to keep from squashing someone (a nice thing) with so many pleasure-craft out.
In one of the conversations with Bill and Max, the issue they wanted me to know about was that their floor was always wet! Water from wakes soaking their floor and keeping their feet wet all of the time – with that in mind the front of our boat has a splash guard, that has helped. But when water comes in great quantities (and it will) there is a hole in the floor (register) to let the water out, they both worked well – except the floor has still been wet. A carpet runner in the cabin has helped to a large degree, maybe that’s just going to be how it is and what to expect…
Below Dubuque’s there were also crowds of folks on the sporadic beaches having their Sunday meetings with beverage of choice – after the third bunch (and striking a wing-dam with my prop, little damage) we moseyed by and pulled in to what some called Chestnut beach. Again great casual conversation for a long period of time. Many asked questions and climbed into the ‘bird’ to scribble on the walls with a marker – fun time and great place for folks to let their kids run – volley ball was going on too. Thanks for the moment you guys, it was one of the best….
Lock 12 was the easiest yet, its like they opened it just for us and let us through, again – good communication with the lockmaster as the water dropped about 5 feet…
Just after the lock came Bellevue Iowa – and a burger at the local gas station and grille, pleasant conversation with Jerry and Joyce and the station crew as we all waited for our meals, more nice folks.. As we left the dock two more gentlemen came and talked a while – they had checked out our boat and website and came and chatted a while, folks love to talk about ‘going down the river.’.
With evening approaching these two provided directions to a place 7 miles downriver to spend the night – all the area around Savannah is restricted, army corps of engineers, so we had to make it through and see the red-tower light in front of us before we could stop.
Beautiful area, as it has been for thousands of years I suppose – with the sun at our back the shorelines were crystal clear, the water was gentle, and everything was comfortable as we entered this scenic area. The seven miles were beautiful and soon we noticed the light and found a beach to tie to along the channel.
We made the beach as darkness fell,
– and tied to a tree along the channel (we were still a little ‘green’ at choosing the best anchorage).
It wasn’t too long when we heard a storm coming from the west, thats when you start thinking about where the best place is to be for lightning – on the west bank or east bank? We ‘battened down the hatches’ (tied a rope around the circumference of the boat to hold the tarps tight and from blowing up) and it was ‘Storm world’ for a while – the boat shook and lightning lit up the sky like a tow boats search beam – a part of this trip that just has to be – we just have to ride it out and listen to it move away.
It was probably good that we were on the east bank, because during the night a tow held to the shore on the west bank (across from us) as another made its way around a lower bend and then Northward past us. From there and somewhere during the night and Carl’s snoring the lightning moved on, sleep for me was light again as I’m still absorbing all of this – I found myself on many nights of the trip not wanting to go to bed – this was all so great and I wanted to absorb every minute of it.
I did get up at first daylight and used the computer some – writing is impossible while we are moving with conversation and all thats being seen – so I’m still searching for the right time to scribble notes. As the trip went on I kept a steno pad near the chart and made notes on it (and the chart). With better power (solar, or the hookup fell short) it could be possible, but I also wanted time to absorb and digest it all.
So day four is here and it is June – (Happy birthday Jessica), another tow approaches in the background.
….and using a ‘blog’ format was new to me – I loved the comments but found that it easily diverted my attention (I wanted to answer all), so while on the river and for the log part of my notes – I didn’t do the comment thing. I have no idea is it is a good thing or a bad thing – right or wrong, but my little mind said that this gave me more time to enjoy the river and that’s what the trip was about……it worked.
Next post, Day 4 – to @ Hampton, Il
June 30, 2009
Miles Covered: um 546- to um 491 (57 miles)
Closest towns or landmark (chart): Savanna, Il riverside to Island near Hampton, Il
Original Post date: June 2
This morning it is still a little rainy so we move a little slower than we have, but one we begin to move everything falls into place.
We undo all the tarps (if battened) that protected us from any elements, start the coffee pot and stow the gear – basic organization – then we push out into the current as the coffee perks and ride the current for a while. This morning the breeze held its own against the current – we found many times that the current was stronger than the breeze (or wind), the vessel, however slowed would continue on the current against the wind, small things that we noticed. The point to our mornings is that we seem to work good together – Carl and I spent several years together on the rescue truck in Asheville, things get done with nothing said and in it all we have found a pattern to the start of each day. Coffee….
Stopped in the town of Savanna, Il and found breakfast, shower, and a stood, The shower was unexpected (it was in the restaurant!) – I jumped in cleaned off as my breakfast was cooked and put the same clothes back on, felt like a kid again (but smelling older) by getting away with putting on the same clothes. Clothes needed were minimal – a couple bathing suits and t-shirts seemed to go the whole trip – if the colors were different you could alternate schemes (like different drink combination’s), no rules apply – I liked that.
We found too that most of the day was spent standing or leaning (like in a bar), the lower seat of the pontoon wasn’t right– for piloting on the river a stool sits higher and feels better during the day as you look at the chart and around the vessel – the pontoon seat did come back into play in the evenings as a stable clothes or towel perch – so for a while we switched them around, and used what felt right (that is until Carl told me I couldn’t do that to the seat – but thats another story). – plans are to have a simple ceremony and leave the broken stool in a fireplace somewhere……
Carl took the kayak for a few miles around a slough while I stayed in the channel, it was a nice morning with plenty of wildlife and a gentle breeze which had changed to our backs.
The pontoon runs at just over an idle, with the current and a pocket full of peace the rate feels just fine and we are still covering our 30 mile benchmarks and not working it too hard, plenty of river ahead.
Came to an Island near Sabula in pool 13 that was just loaded with white pelicans and other water foul,
a few were eyeing our featherless mascot on the front – that coupled with the downwind breeze – we changed our minds about walking the island and moved on.
We took a shortcut (a chute) through the industrial section of Clinton, Iowa and ended back out on the Mississippi a few miles later at our slow pace – I’m sure everyone has become more conscious of what they put back into the river in the past few years – but the discharges still run.
With the river’s gentle pace and pools of the Upper Mississippi, Carl and I have talked several times about those that ‘float’ down the river – it would seem difficult and slow. A motor is a must for the locks and pools – and along those lines we have an added admiration for those that canoe or kayak the distance – awesome resilience and determination from those folks. Later on the lower Mississippi I found just how awesome an accomplishment it is for those that canoe or kayak the distance.
Of course a trip like this takes great family and friend support – some of which you may not expect and comes along the way – which we found to be true. Little things matter, this is not to say the next picture is in any way similar – but it was a little room along the way that provided some comfort too.
So other than the wildlife, neat homes, bluffs, trains, tows, and pools along the way, yesterday had a streak of mundane in it, not a bad mundane at all – but an area of just riding the current and finding more and more things to look at – smooth moving water, flowing as it has for thousands of years mundane.
It was a rainy and overcast start to this morning, but the day turned out nice – I will check the weather again tomorrow, which could hold us to a low mileage day. As we exited lock 14 we found an island to the left called it a day..
Next post, Day 5 – to Muscatine
June 30, 2009
Miles Covered: um 491- to um 455 (37 miles)
Closest towns or landmark (chart): Island outside of Lock 14 to Muscatine, Ia.
Original Post date: June 3
Lock 14 to Muscatine, Iowa – not a high pace day, just an easy clip with the breeze again at out backs and a scenery full of more white pelicans.
It all started with the usual 8 am cleanup and down the river we went. We may have been spoiled lately with the good breakfast’s that we have had because even though we were near a large town, we couldn’t find breakfast riverside – thought one place was open because a fire truck was in the lot, but it was Davenport’s FD doing a pre-incident plan. Nice folks, they walked out to the river wall where we talked a moment before shoving off, we remained hungry.
Soon it was into the soft Oreo cookie’s, they are really pretty good that way – even for breakfast with milk (yes, I brushed my teeth Mom).
We are starting to pick up a few what appear to be mayflies (started at the lights of the lock), small flying (but not biting) insects that just like to hang around – seems to bother Carl more than myself, I figure they will move on with the right wind.
I am finding that computer time is limited during the day, so I make some quick crummy notes (hopefully to return and fix later). Taking it all in seems to be the priority of the day, and also without the sunshine the past few days the battery dedicated to our electrical inverter is running low – camera battery is down at this time too, please send the sun… today it was 66 cloudy with occasional rain – even so it all remains very awesome, fun, and entertaining as this new world passes by us.
We stopped to top-off our fuel and on the unattended shack the sign said “push the buzzer’” well I did and it was a FOG HORN! just above my head – after all that peace I jumped a mile! it was a good laugh for Carl.
Our Huckster buddy’s from college are just now getting to the Mississippi near Prescott, Wi, they have a neat and very arduous adventure ahead of them, we wish them perseverance with it.
We locked through lock 16 with the ‘French-Quarter,’ another boat doing something similar – they were headed to the Gulf via the Tenn-Tom – so after a quick ‘one-with-the-river’ outside of the lock
we continued into Muscatine, Iowa – nice protected harbor, and then spent the day/night, roaming the neat little town..
During that time we visited the local pubs, The Pearl, the Hubble, and the Button Factory – seems years ago they made buttons from clam shells collected from the Mississippi – a lost business, now a restaurant, but the folks were interesting and the beverage made us feel a little more at home…
Thank goodness it was just Tuesday or I think we would still be out roaming the streets – even came close to getting a tattoo. The other boaters Tom, Holly, and Pat aboard the French Quarters were great conversation during the evening and later at thir boat. The Dockside community is a neat little family.
Ok, so a quick post and we’re headed to fiddle with the trigger on the coffee maker so that it will be ready in the morning…
June 30, 2009
Miles Covered: um 455- to um 389 (66 miles)
Closest towns or landmark (chart): Muscatine, Ia. to just past Dallas Island
Original Post date: June 4
Muscatine, Io
Woke up at the Muscatine harbor dock after a great time running around town the evening before – because we were in town so short of time with so much to see we would revert to the ‘bacshortly’ bar-hopping thing – that is have one beverage here and then go to the next establishment, if we found one that was the most appealing we would return – “bacshortly”…
and then as the evening wore on we visited our ‘French Quarter’ friends dockside in/on their boat, really a ‘vessel’ as compared to our little river platform – it was all good-times, even managed a couple of those hearty laughs until tears moments.
Musky
The next day we returned to the river, as we idled towards the next lock the French Quarter passed us, so we pushed the little bird to make it and ‘lock-through’ #17 with them, afterward we returned to idle pace and they moved out over the horizon (or around the bend) ahead with their trip, we wished them well – oooooooooo, ooooooooo…..
In the past couple of days we have also passed numerous duck blinds along the Upper Miss, I can only imagine that they need to be replaced after each large flood – simple thoughts as we returned to idle speed on the ever mighty current, just fast enough.
Also few pleasure craft around in the early part of the week which is nice and adds to the peace of it all. Occasionally when we are bothered by waves or the obnoxious changes of ‘civilization’ which breaks our cycle of river tranquility, we have developed a simple saying that seems to fit pretty well, especially after a couple of afternoon beverages – it goes something like (but not exactly) “doggone people!” breaks us in to a simple laugh and lightens up the place – and of course it varies as to trains, tows, and to the occasional pleasure craft that do shove us around with their wakes.
-but the day is mostly about taking in the sights and sounds of the River – simple observations, evaluations, speculations, and summary’s – continuous idle chat slightly enhanced with mixed beverage.
We stopped later in Oquawka, Il and walked to the local diner (which is pretty much at waters edge) – I had the catfish sandwich while Carl has been on a hamburger binge – I thought it was pretty good, but who knows – after a long period of time on the boat I’ve seen good friends quabble over the remnants of a sandwich (not this trip yet) – it was ‘land-food’ and worth the stop.
The little town was simple and while we were there saw several folks drive to the end of mainstreet (which was waters-edge) stop and peer at our boat – we spoke with several and it was neat to hear them mention how they would love to have made a trip like ours (#3 talking about “going down the river”) – personally, I do not think age is a hurtle for such a trip.
- and then there were lots of miles in between – to walk the deck, pilot, or sit/lay on the roof……
Lock 18 (holding the rope routine)-
As we put another lock behind us we began noticing the homes along the shoreline, yes, “doggone people!” again, these homes are built way up on pilings as to offer some high-water protection, even trailers are up on stiltz – a funny sight to those unused to it – but I thought also very practical too.
Burlington, Iowa – we went to the local Marina and fueled up, I changed the prop and plugs on the motor, birdbath under the hose with ‘hot’ water (the hose was laying in the sun) and an hour or so just laying around listening to all the dock chat. There were some older kids here laying in the sun, frolicking and playing on sea-doos, so they do actually swim in the Mississippi always a good sign.
Burlington Marina
The Marina owners were nice and told us we could stay the night at no cost, but we moved on down river to the nearby Big Muddy Restaurant – they had a dock so we tied up and went in.
The Big Muddy Restaraunt and bar, riverside at Burlington is an old train depot that you would swear was brand-new. The crowd was a little light this night but the Cajun grouper hit the spot. Christian was the bartender and he introduced us to Karla one of the owners (who was working as hard as anyone there), and in between tasks we talked a little of the town – and going down the river – no doubt that if nothing else on this trip, we haven’t been met with an uninterested ear or friendly smile, makes it all worth it.
Big Muddy Rest -
So it was evening after the Big Muddy and rather than bunk down, we decided to continue down the river into the evening darkness – we did – it was worth it too, because with the sun at our back the orangeish shoreline was again as beautiful in clarity as it was through the Savanna reservation a few nights earlier – something else that seems to make this all worthwhile, the natural moments of this river, the clarity – its there for you.
We continued into the darkness where anchorage become a more difficult task – but finally we located a place in the mud, oh yeah – the dark mud that you have to wipe off…..but that’s another story….
Great nights rest while the clothes ‘aired’ out, its early morning and we are adrift with coffee perking – drifting towards Ft. Madison Iowa.
Next post, Day 7 to Polly Island
June 30, 2009
Miles Covered: um 389- to um 345 (44 miles)
Closest towns or landmark (chart): just past Dallas island to Polly island
Original Post date: June 5
Day seven, after cruising into the late evening it took two efforts to find anchorage – where the cruise was nice, the darkness complicated the tie down process – another reminder to look for a place earlier and to be tied down by 6 – enjoy it more. We found ourselves in an area where you could be fifty yards away from an island, and then you’re stuck in the mud…. real mud – the kind that just hangs on to you. We ended up along another island near the mud and had a decent nights rest – this is where we learned (or were reminded) that the railroad still runs near the river and the nearer to a city you are – the more they blow their horns at crossings, so through the wee hours of the night – wooooo wooooooo, “doggone trains!”
We keep learning the smaller things, like get away from the city, tie-down early, and come in parallel to ‘ wing-dams.’
A cruiser came by real early as I was preparing the morning coffee – he was bow-up and creating a large wake – it appeared as though it would throw us up onto the mud-bar so I hollered and Carl sprang from bed like a new rookie on the firetruck – he jumped into the mud, of course as he was in the air I said “wait, it’s ok” – wakeup call…. While he was there Carl went ahead and set us adrift – that’s a nice thing in the morning – coffee and drifting..not the black mud – its hard to get it off.
In nearby Fort Madison, Ia. we stopped, I needed to download some things and Carl needed his breakfast and constitution – talked to a few folks around the bar and dock, several which had recently lost their jobs in a company that made steel plates for construction machines – so they were having a beverage at 11 am (hey, its five o’clock somewhere).
We passed the recreated Fort that was once part of their history and the city has done a real nice job on the park along the river, ESPN is headed there this week to televise a large fishing tournament next week – that was the buzz around the town..
We pointed the bird down the river, and at idle speed we took to the current – headed south at 5 miles an hour…….believe it or not, it’s fast enough. It was possible to put Patric in the Captains chair and tie the steering wheel, and for distances we could play several hands of cards – Carl’s ahead at the moment, five games to 500 – loser has to jump in (if you saw the water you could understand).
Passed the 350 mile point for the Upper River, Carl’s ½ way point – we’ve been really fortunate to have the cool and gentle breeze at our back and made superb time –
Graffiti stop here, and then stopped later for a wait prior to lock 19 ( a drop of 36 feet) at The Keokuk Marina, nice folks there –
It was an informative stop just before the lock, they suggested that we go to The Purple Cow after the lock for refreshment – of course Carl and I had the visions of a nice place like this Marina – but what we found was on the far end of the scale. We think that it was a little purple building along the river, but there was only a beer sign – wasn’t sure so we looked further, by that time we were too far passed – river only flows one way.
So we cooked rice and bullion on board as we floated, it was pretty good. Later found a great place and threw the anchor out – didn’t hear one train all night.
…. still hunting some grits.
So off to Day 8 – all is fine on board, no mud fights yet – putting southward – and continuing to work on new and exciting mixed beverage combination’s.
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