Well this was great too with Doobie Brothers ‘o’ Black Water music – but they took that soundtrack away…. doesen’t change a thing about how great it all was….. we just played what we were dealt…. like now.

‘doggone people !

 

Tom Haynie

After several months of planning and improvising a raft, riding the current of the mighty Mississippi River became a reality.  For a week in May and the full month of June 2009 we lived aboard our boat’ the ‘Freebird’ as we covered 1700 + miles of The Mississippi River from Minnesota to New Orleans.

Our travels link.

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The scenery and activity that surrounds the Mississippi River was an incredibly interesting change to our  ‘normal’ setting in the Carolina’s – the 32 days onboard were spent standing rather than sitting – walking the deck, watching, and just ‘taking all the different features in’ as we drifted at idle-speed – truly a simple adventure.

We took alot of pictures and talk often about the towboats (‘tows’) along the way, I suppose that was because tows are the predominant feature, activity, and ‘chat’ on the river (next to #2 ‘Catfishing,’ and #3 talking about “going down the river”).  Along the way we also learned firsthand the remarkable nature of the folks along her and that the Mississippi is indeed our nations “interstate of waterways” -  truly the ‘backbone’ of our country in moving commerce on a large scale and in a safe manner.

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For me the unexpected bonus was in surpassing New Orleans and spending a couple of days along the Gulf’s Intercoastal Waterway as I ‘putted’ from New Orleans to Biloxi, Ms., where the trailer was waiting.  I did not want to get off of the water, but the little pontoon (Freebird) was no match for the “Anti-Gulf.”

A tired bird

Of course with any adventure such as this it took the support/words and effort of friends, family, and folks along the way to make it ‘full-circle,’ thank you – you folks know who you are.

As I work back through the notes I will try to elaborate a little more where I couldn’t while on the river.  On the lower Mississippi cell towers were few, plus there was just too much for me to take-in, I wanted to look around and I really didn’t want to sit here… it all worked out.

We did pull our camera’s out and note as much as we could,  for the video’s – I am certainly not a professional and with some of those drink concoctions it really didn’t matter – but I did push the button, it was fun.  We were on the river ‘doin-it’ – and that is what was important…

It was an outstanding ride on one of Mother Nature’s continental tear ducts;  hopefully these notes will provide some perspective to any that may plan a trip of their own one day.

Why not ?…..

My Mom riding before decommishoning the 'bird'

Mom (Marie) riding before decommissioning the 'Freebird'

lifes2short

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We began this trek in Asheville, NC – and soon found that all this modern technology is not a bit of good without power…….. before traveling I had prepared everything on the truck except the lighter socket (for power), so while traveling our computer, telephones, and someone’s “Tom-Tom” died -  but not a big deal, we just couldn’t communicate while traveling (and even though it was pretty neat gadget – I’d never used a “tom-tom’ before).

So we had to make conversation and they had to trust I knew where we were going – and without the technology we still made it riverside – La Crosse, Wi (La Cresent, Minn).  This was originally a hasty post as we found a electrical receptical, waited for our rooms to get into after 16+ hours driving, and began preparing the ‘bird.

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It was a busy day after traveling  so many hours, but we remained pretty much non stop until 6pm -  ‘Freebird’ slowly came together.  Jason Worley and Brian Lawrence (fellow firefighter’s) were invaluable with their assistance – their quality work would prove solid against the elements over time and the next 1700 miles of the river.

When I did put it in the water my excitement was tempered with possible motor trouble (unknown at the time it was a developing self-oiler issue), as things seemed to straighten out (the buzzer went off) all seemed fine, weight then became our concerning factor. I made a final ‘culling’ of items that I wanted and needed to take.

It was a really long day and we were tired, so we put the computer down and got ready to check out the town – at the same time we had tractor’s surrounding us at the hotel, neat.

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even one old ford 8N with a flat-head ford V8 in it……..

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The folks in Wisconsin were as nice and friendly as they were serious about their tractors -  as strangers it was all a refreshing sense of kindness, and on the weather side of it all the nights were cool – a sign of good things to come…

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It was a long but very important day where to the largest degree planning and preparation paid-off, and left a little time for fun……..

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What are you going to do with that chicken Jason?

Miles Covered:  um 700 to um 647 (53 miles)

Closest towns or landmark (chart): La Crosse, Wi to island across from Gordon’s Bay landing

Original Post date: May 28

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First day on the water, start of the river trek – our first thoughts and hopes were for a ‘ clean’ river run with no major weather issues or delays (which we received) – primary objectives for the first day were to just get a feel of the river, find out about current, fuel mileage (3 to 5 miles per gal), and “earn” some river miles while acclimating to the boat and scenery.

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It turned out to be an awesome day (this became the ‘norm’), there was a gentle breeze at our back, the air was clear, ‘bluffs’ on each side of the river, and we had sightings of about nine eagles during the day – several in the act of catching fish near the boat.

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We soon found our pace – pretty much a little more than idle-speed yet with the current and a breeze at our back – there was still wind in our hair.

The first tows that we passed were impressive, the barges they pushed were huge and to add to that they were usually pushing 15 of them (42 on the lower Mississippi)  – but to this point no major wakes to deal with as we were expecting (we were later to learn that the waves after the tows (radiating from the shores) created the most havoc).  The Pilots in the tows were very professional, time after time they proved their skill while showing a high degree of consideration as we shared the river, they were great to us.

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We passed through locks 8 and 9 on this date, with no delay at 8 and then had an hour and a half wait at 9 – the communication requesting ‘lock-through’ was friendly (channel 14) – seems most everyone we met had a desire to chat and did so with a smile (even if a train was right behind them!). The lock attendants would drop us a couple of ropes and we would chat some more as the river dropped below us – an average of seven feet in just a few short minutes (the time was spent getting IN the locks), neat experience.

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Railroads run along the eastern shore, the trains were long and many – seemed they coincided their runs so that the one in the opposing direction would come through 15-20 minutes after the Southbound (I’m sure thats a good thing). We never really tired of them, they were/are part of the character of the river – what we did learn though was NOT to tie-up for the night near a city (as they blow their horns at all the crossings!), “doggone trains!”

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There are also small communities that pop up around the bends, also with that are fishermen – and their families with their poles in the water and a friendly wave – they fish for more than catfish on the Upper Mississippi.

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Today has been a play-it by ear day, plans were to cruise until about four and then find a place to ‘lite’ for the evening, but after a 1.5 hour wait at lock nine – it ended up being an 8pm ‘tie-off’ a mile or so after the lock and figure out our ‘camping’ routine (ez).

On a ’side-bar;’ our passenger Patrick (see Crew) arrived in LaCrosse is now accompanying us, we even gave him the Captains chair for a while this morning.

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So our first day on the river began an ongoing trend, no major hurtles – we settled down for the evening just out of Lock 9 and spent the first night listening to the trains pass on the far shore – plus all through the night hearing what sounded like ‘coconuts falling into the water (ker-plunk (maybe beavers)) – these things never ceased to entertain us.

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Next day, Day 2 – To Dubuque..

Miles Covered:  67 miles, um 647- to um 580

Closest towns or landmark (chart): Outside of Lock 9 to Dubuque, Ia Yacht Club

Original Post date: May 29

It was just an OK nights sleep after a long wait to pass through Lock 9.  A tow had priority and the process for a large tow to pass through takes a while – pushing 12 barges they move into the lock (which will only hold nine barges and the tow), so they have to leave the front three (or six) in the lock and back out.  The first containers are lowered (or raised) first and then the tow and remaining barges “lock-through” and reattach on the other side – it takes at least an hour….

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So we tied up to a buoy in ‘pool 9′ for the wait and watched the eagles soar and do their natural thing, to this date we have noticed 23 treating us as if we were not around.  There are also many white pelicans and blue heron present – the river’s natural and unnatural entertainment mixed together, all a part of the adventure.

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Besides the trains last night we had the beaver slapping their tails when things became too quiet – sounded like coconuts falling into the water, plunk!

Then today began with sprinkles and figuring out the coffee pot – looks like a Mr. Coffee,’ but you set it on a Coleman grill, fix the ‘trigger,’ and turn the heat way up – fixing the ‘trigger’ was important, it finally worked out after wasting a pot of coffee and eating a few grinds.

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Again, the day started overcast with light rain and the wind in our face, neat weather.

We ‘idled’  along in the current to McGregor, Ia. and took a walk through the town.  Then we located a restaraunt near the river and had breakfast, nice simple place – and more great folks at a their nice simple pace.  Biscuits and gravy here, Carl was real happy with his eggs/bacon/hashbrowns too.  For some reason his coffee wasn’t as well appreciated, but all the while the locals enjoyed their normal morning conversation - nice to just ‘fit-in’ and eat – and thats what we did.

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Early Fire Triangle (alarm)

Early Fire Triangle (alarm)

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The motor has been doing fine after a couple early concerns – our fuel tank needed venting, of course we found this when on docking I checked the rear of the boat – our 12 gallon tank looked like a two gallon red raisin (I think it was pulling fuel FROM the motor) simple fix – open the vent!

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So we ease along in no hurry and so far surprised at the daily mileage while just getting a ‘feel’ of the river, initially I don’t think it will last.

I had allotted 57 days and nights for the river at 30 miles per day thinking weather would hold us up a number of times (which would leave us time in various cities) – but we hit the ‘mother-glitch’ of good weather for going south and we are riding it casually southward…..

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Lock 10 came with sunshine, but again an hour waiting for a tow.  Waiting is really alright, just a bit tougher in the south wind and whitecaps of the ‘pool’ immediately before the lock while trying to stay off (or out of) the dam.  You can call early and ‘pace-yourself’ toward it (depending on their time-table for you), or head on in and tie-off outside (leaving room for the tows) along the lock wall – for us, it just took some boat tricks (large, slow circles) and patience….  .

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Just after lock 10 we decided to stop and ‘top-off’ our fuel, again – if for nothing else to enjoy some wonderful conversation with the locals..

Really, the fuel attendants

Really, the fuel attendants

OK, so we really needed the three gallons of fuel,….. the conversation was great and the scenery – well, you decide.  We slowly climbed back into the ‘bird’ and reluctantly proceeded southward through the sunshine with a little more ‘flavoring’ to our conversation – it took a short while before the beauty of the bluffs, long trains, and tows returned to the top of our thoughts – well, maybe a little longer……

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The view from the Freebird Pilot-house……

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There seems to be plenty of camping and recreational boats along the sandy shores here,  picturesque – all of it.

The wait at lock 11 took the longest so far (2.5 hours) so we tied up to a maintenance skiff between the lock and shore, then walked up and watched the process from the handrail – this lock was not opened to the public, but after advising us of that point the attendants still allowed us to ‘hang out’ anyway.

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Arrived in Dubuque,  Iowa as it was getting dark, it was after nine o’clock – another late ‘tie-down.  So we followed the right shoreline around and through small channel to the Dubuque Yacht Club where we tied-off to their transient dock…..The National Mississippi River Museum and Aquarium is nearby, we will visit it before leaving town.

It seemed a long day, I was pooped and still adjusting to sleeping on the boat, which finally came (Sunday morning).

Instead of some island I find ourselves tied-off between all these large nice vessels and bathing under a garden hose soaping down – new kid on the block…..

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The next morning we found a wonderful Yacht Club, with plenty of amenities (and good food)……

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Dubuque Yacht Club

Dubuque Yacht Club

Next post, Day 3 – to @ Savanna, Il

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